Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Sew It - Spring For Cotton

Eek has it really been three months since my last post, blimey! Well, I had better get on with showing off my Spring for cotton project before it gets too cold to wear it!!

1940s Style Sweetheart Sundress ~
By Hand London's Kim Dress
+ Side Pocket Tutorial - Youtube
2m Custom printed medium weight cotton
1/2 meter White medium weight cotton
Size Made: 
16 UK - With Adjustments

I really enjoyed making this dress, so much so that as soon as I had finished and photographed it, I unpicked it all started again!

Okay, it wasn't actually the love of the pattern that made me do this, even I know that would be bonkers! What actually happened was, I'd finished the dress before the deadline and was super proud of myself, pats herself on back, but I was so keen to finish it that I forgot to check the fit, after my initial pinning stage, and just went full steam ahead into finishing it as soon as I could, so, lo and behold the moment I tried it on, I realised it was way too large in the bust area!

Front Bodice
I always have a bodice fitting issue with sleeveless dresses, I usually have to adjust the straps or bust somewhere along the line, as my bust is proportionally smaller than the standard pattern size for the rest of my torso, but even after the usual adjustments it was still too big; if I'd have left it as it was I would have ended up flashing my undies every time I lent forward, and that was just not the look I was hoping for. So rather than leave it as is I decided to bite the bullet and unpick it all and start from scratch!!

Adjusted bodice
I am glad I did, as I know I would have never worn it otherwise and it's too pretty not to wear. The fabric did struggle a little with all the unpicking, being a printed cotton, there were holes left in the print by the unpicked stitches but as I was taking it in they hardly show as they are mostly hidden in the seam allowance, though around the waistband the are a few rouge ones.

Back View

The pattern was a dream to sew, the most difficult part was the bodice, as there are quite a few pieces to it which give it shape without the need for darts (it's all very clever) and it's lined, that said it was not too tricky, though I seem to have puckered the back seam (see above photo back seam on the right) when under stitching and so it won't press out, I don't know how I managed it but as it's behind me I am not going to worry about it. Also, the concealed zipper has not been quite as well concealed the second time around, but I really don't mind as I rather like the contrast, so I am going to see it as a feature rather than a flaw!

Not so invisible zip and gathered waist

I managed to get the whole dress out of the 2 meters I had, which was quite a squeeze, but as the skirt was gathered I just added less to the width, which worked out rather well as it is quite a stiff fabric the skirt benefited from being a little less full. Also, the mismatching of the pattern which I mentioned in my last post doesn't really notice that much which is what I was hoping for!

I have worn it a few times over the last few months, when the weather permitted, and I have found it great comfy dress to wear, I must confess to always wearing it with a blouse (see my Instagram for the evidence) or cardie over the top, as I have a dislike of showing off my arms especially at work. Oh, I nearly forgot, I added some side seam pockets to the skirt on the second stitching, which are so simple to do and make the world of difference to how much wear it will get, as pockets are soo useful!

Okay, all that is left to do is to give you an awkward (slightly surly) picture of me wearing it, one day I promise I'll get better at having my photo taken!

Wendy x